After you use it you won't go back to Imperial or Diamond. Also in your area if there are homes that have plaster walls & ceilings you may be able to start your own Plaster repair Business.Ĭall Lauren at Master of Plaster tell her I told you to call see if she will send you some wet sample base & finish so you can try it out. If there is a supply house near you that handles the USG products there has to be a demand for the plaster products check to see who is using the plaster products there are not many people in the plaster trade at this time. If the Structo has lagre perlite in the mix use a door / window screen to sift out the perlite and you can skim it very smooth. As for building out with Strutco - Lite no problem using that method Imperial base and Diamond will both adhere to Structo - Lite. Gotta give the guy credit, because a 21 year old amateur without a clue did (what I think is) a damn good job just based off of his videos.įor the repairs on dings in your finish DO NOT use a setting compound to over lay.įor an easy fix use a lime like Ivory Finish lime mix say one part dry Lime with two parts Diamond finish than use it for touch-up you won't find this mixture in the USG book but it will give you a better thin film for touch -up. It's virtually non-existent in my area.Īlso just throwing it out there, but every bit of info I got on how to do it came from USG's Gypsum construction handbook, and watching hours of Kirk Giordano's videos on YouTube. Though I've only a single room under my belt now, I can definitely say I wish there were plastering contractors near me that I could work for and learn from, but oh well. Because I'm not a pro at either, it was only marginally faster than taping, but I honestly enjoyed it ? I liked taping because it seemed almost like an art form no one at my job does it well and they all despise doing it, yet for me it came naturally. I have a few small touch ups in the corners that I'll probably fix with durabond, but all in all I'm very happy with the results. Troweled it down and it's smooth as glass and it evened out very nicely. Just finished my coat of USG diamond finish. You can trowel this base coat as smooth as any finish coat plaster. Plus you can trowel smoother, stop and start no cold joints and no waste what you don't use put back in the bucket and use later. Now that you have troweled the USG product for some of the other walls try this Product Master of Plaster It is applied very similar to USG products but is very used friendly can put any of the bases over bases or finishes over finishes. Also you can tape the seams & joints using Imperial base coat & mesh tape. When you stated that you used Blue Board is that just the water resistant board?įor USG Veneer plaster you should use The USG Imperial Board no bonding would be required. If on your next wall you want to use a thicker base do the double back method.įor a very smooth plaster you should have a blister brush its makes troweling the finish easy, if you can't find a blister brush look for a plastering finish brush. It would be best to use the Diamond finish and trowel on a coat than double back and apply a thinner Diamond finish and trowel smooth. Even though it's not going to be 5/8" thick, it's still harder than sheetrockįor your question on going over Imperial base with a second coat if you troweled it smooth the second coat of imperial base will not bond real well and over time will delaminate. I love how durable they are compared to Sheetrock, and so I decided if I can get veneer plaster down pat, that's what I'm doing with. Anyway, just out of curiosity, can I do another coat of imperial base before I finish with the diamond finish? It looks as though I left it thin in spots, and since the Imperial base is stronger, id rather have more of that, with just a tight skim of the diamond finish on top.įor those who are wondering, my walls are currently 3/8" rocklath, about 9/16" of horsehair plaster, and 1/16" of finish plaster. I expected trouble in the corners but didn't have any, and I think I may've actually troweled it too smooth for it to be an ideal basecoat. I found it far easier to work than drywall mud. I know I could've painted only the durabond, but I wanted the best bond possible.Īnyway, I'm very surprised at how it went on. Anyway, I did it with blueboard, taped all the seams with durabond, then painted the wall with Larsens plaster weld. My trial room was a small closet ( 56"x48) and I only did 3 walls, as one was an interior wall, and one was against a stairway. However, I discovered veneer plaster and decided to give it a go. Long story short, I picked up a knack for taping and decided I'd like to rip out some walls, insulate and Sheetrock them. So I'm doing a bunch of work at my (my parents) 1940's uninsulated house.
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